How do I look at the colour of the pearl to see the best colour?
Pearl
colour is usually defined as consisting of two components:
- the body colour
- the overtone.
The dye / irradiation
Let’s
deal with this one first.
To
begin with, virtually all “black pearls” you see for sale will be dyed. Only
pearls from “Pinctada Margaritifera” (the Black Lip Oyster) are naturally black
and they’re rare. Rarity, of course, equates to price.
No
freshwater pearls are ever naturally black. So, if you see cheap black pearls
or freshwater pearls that are black, then you know that their colour is almost
certainly artificial.
A
complication here arises because not all dying is done for a radical effect.
Sometimes it’s done to make the peals whiter, creamier or more golden etc.
Purists
would argue that no pearl should ever be dyed and on the whole, the less a
pearl has been “tweaked” to make it look better, the higher its value will
usually be. However, some buyers are less concerned about that and will happily
accept pearls that have had their colour enhanced.
How
can you identify an artificially coloured pearl?
Well,
most professionals and expert retailers of pearls can usually do so at a
glance. Sometimes they’ll also look into any drill holes in a pearl looking for
signs of a darker core (a sign of irradiation) or down the length of the hole
for major colour variations (a sure sign of dying).
Body colour
Many
things can influence the basic body colour of a pearl. The lengthy list includes
things such as:
·
the type of mollusc;
·
the waters it has lived in;
· what materials were used as
a nucleus to get the pearl underway in cultured pearls;
·
etc.
The
basic body colour can vary anywhere from black to near brilliant white with
many subtle tones in between such as “gold” “green” and “blue” etc.
This
is often the first colour that will strike you when you look at a pearl. It’s
something of a matter of opinion but many would argue that pearls are best seen
under very soft natural light or equally soft but bright artifical light.
Very
strong sunlight can cause the pearl’s colour to be lost in the background
illumination. Pearls also really don’t like strong direct sunlight very much
and it can be harmful to them, so avoid it if at all possible.
Overtones
These
are subtle colours that sometimes seem to “float” as luminescence on the top of
the body colour.
These
colours can drift and swirl and give rise to expressions such as “white pearl
with rose overtones”.
It’s
also possible to find pearls that have little or no overtone too.
There
is no best or worst here. Much depends upon your personal preferences, style
and sometimes just your outfit. Some
people have different pearls with different overtones, so that they can better
coordinate their outfits.
Prices
All
things being equal, black pearls (cultivated) are around 50% rarer than white
pearls. As such that means that if all other things are equal, black pearls are
typically more expensive.
However,
as many black pearls are in fact dyed, the price differences aren’t always very
evident. Remember also that many things taken together, give the value of a
pearl – and colour is only one of them.
Every
colour of pearl suites everyone, wear pearl necklace and pearl pendent in your
favourite colour of pearl.

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